Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Arcachon - dune of Pilat


This is the breath taking view from the top of the highest sand dune in Europe. Decades ago, I came here at midday and climbed to the top of the dune. I can still remember the heat and exhaustion of such a silly escapade. This time, I came at five in the afternoon, with a hat, and found that now there are steps to take you up to the top, so it's much easier.

However, once you start to walk across the sand, it's easier if you take off your sandals else you sink into fine dry sand, which fills up the soles of your footwear and drags your feet.

Earlier in the heat of the day, we spent time on the beach at Arachon, sun bathing and bathing, collecting shells and suntan, with a pleasant lunch in the sun at a local cafe and finished with too too filling gaufres (waffles). Only as the shadows grew longer did we climb the dune.

Beautiful Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a lovely European city to live in, a city we visited about 18 months ago, and have just revisited because daughter has been living and studying there as an Erasmus student. She has a flat near the market and every day can go, look at and buy this beautiful French fish, saucisse, oysters, fruit.

Close by the market is the best bakery, one that is open 24 hours a day.

We stayed in a lovely bed and breakfast, called Maison d'Amarante, where our hostess was so kind that she even invited our daughter for breakfast too. Bordeaux is not just a beautiful town, but its people, the Bordelais are so friendly too. Visit it if you can.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

a Good Day

June 17th
Both my children today are having good days. Although neither has spoken to me, I've heard from them electronically. One texted that she's:
"Off to Bordeaux! :))"
which means she's got good end of second year university exam results. The other has Facebooked:
"Done"
which means he has taken his last university exam this morning and is relieved.

It's beautiful weather.

And a Good Day.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Trains and composted tickets

Home on a TGV (train à grande vitesse) - very fast non-stop train from Bordeaux to Paris. We remembered to composter our tickets as we entered the platform. Composter means to validate, and rather than having ticket inspectors at the barriers to the platforms, French (& Italians too) require you to compost your ticket at a yellow machine that stamps the time and date on it. If an inspector gets on the train and you haven't composté, you're in trouble. In Italy, you have to pay the total cost again. I don't know what they do in France, but don't want to find out.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Weather

A grey mist flattens the Garronne as we leave Bordeaux on our last day. We've been lucky with the weather: warm and sunny the first days, gradually cooling each day, but dry in St Emilion as we traipsed around dusty vineyards. On Tuesday in Bordeaux, there was a torrential downpour for over an hour, but we were dry in in the museum of Jean Moulin.

Where we stayed

We didn't stay in a hotel or hostel at Bordeaux but a micro flat of about 20 square metres. The main room about 3 x 4 metres was reached through a corridor that included a door to bathroom and passed through the kitchen - a cooker top, next to a sink over a fridge with a cupboard and microwave above.

It has what we need: sheets, towels, cutlery, crockery. Apparently there's a washing machine somewhere in the building. Breakfast is available for a a couple of euros as in Internet access. It's convenient for tram train or bus. If you stay for a month or more it's only 34 euros a day. Though it's twice as much for a short stay, it would be worth if for an academic or business conference.

Trams and transport in Bordeaux

I like this tram system here: blue, red and green lines traverse the city. They are frequent, inclusive, accessible, clean and easy to use. You can roll your buggy straight on. You see shopping trolleys, old people with crutches, mums with buggies, and even bikes. The tram stations are accessible wide spaces with long ramps at each end to the low platforms.

Tickets can be for one journey to be completed within an hour, including any changes of line (correspondance), or for a day, which is slightly cheaper than the option of buying a ticket for five journeys. Regulars can buy monthly or annual season tickets and there are reductions for students.

Bikes are another popular mode of transport we see all over the city - welcomed and encouraged rather than merely tolerated. A one-way street for example allows bikes in either direction. Pedestrianised areas also allow bikes with priorite aux pietons. The city bought 5000 bikes and allows free loan to Bordeaux residents and accredited students. Bikes now represent around 5% of movements within the urban Communaute of Bordeaux. There are cycle courses for older people and cycle taxis, and cycle tracks that run parallel to the tramways. It's not surprising they suggest Bordeaux is the capital of bilkes: capitale du velo.

Shopping and nos jours heureux

Bordeaux has the longest pedestrianised shopping mall in Europe. See photo. For other super photos of the town see this blog.

Rue St Catherine is full of shops both small and large: children's clothes, fashion, all of odd things, chocolate, DVDs. If you want to go shopping, come here.

We stopped at a DVD shop to look for a film that came out three years ago: Nos Jours Heureux, a comedy about a colonie de vacances - French summer holiday camps for kids. The film was a great hit in France in 2006 because so many have been to colonies de vacances. I was a monitrice myself in a colonie in the 1970s, so I wanted to see the film, which I cannot get in England and amazon.fr will not sell me. So we looked for it in this small shop. It wasn't there, but the manager thought Fnac might have it. Fnac is a big book shop, a bit like Foyles, renowned for similar qualities. So we asked at Fnac - a huge three or four storey establishment, but they didn't have it in stock this week. We bought some music CDS: Moustaki, Brassens, Graeme Allwright and Prévert. I'll play them in my new car, when it arrives.

Jean Moulin museum

The Jean Moulin museum at Bordeaux is dedicated to the resistance movement of the second world war. This museum is full of wartime memorabilia: helmets, uniforms, flags, bikes and motorcycles, photos and posters. Such posters exhort the French to do their duty and return to work. One poster warns them to turn in any English person or risk being shot!.

There are sad stories of bravery, like of the young man, Labat, who at 20 had joined the Resistance, escaped to England and was trained in codes and radio. He made a couple of successful forays back to France. IN 1942, he was parachuted in with radio transmitter equipment when he was caught and arrested. As the opened his bag containing the radio transmitter, he made his escape, shooting six Germans on the way. When he was trapped he took cyanide and died. How brave. How proud his father might have been. How sad his mother must have been.

People

In Bordeaux I see head-scarfed gypsies, the younger ones begging and the older gypsies instructing them - as if allocating them targets. And there are students and bikes too. The photograph is outside one of the university buildings, but we found at least four parts to the university in different parts of the city.

The cyclists are all over, even in the market, marche des Capucins, which people ride into , and load up shopping straight away, none of this nonsense about leaving the bike outside for somebody to nick while you stagger around with laden shopping baskets. Lots of women are on bikes. My husband notices them being more aggressive than men, demanding their rights to ride when a car or van blocks their path.

All races, white and various negro races, some very very black are here along with a few Asian women wearing Muslim head scarves. The Asian men are less obvious because they blend in with the dark haired brown eyed French men. The variety of races is revealed through the variety of restaurants: Moldovian, Japanese, a Spanish food stall in the market called
La Table de Don Quichotte with specialitiés de charcuteries du terroir Basque et Espagnol

This isn't just a city centre for the young and employed. Older retirees and mothers with buggies abound. I spoke to a mother with her 18 month old at a tram stop. She came from Portugal a couple of years ago when her husband got a permanent job here. In Portugal they'd both been working and still were struggling to pay for their house, but here in Bordeaux, she can stay at home and look after their children, and they can pay for their house here and still have enough money to send home to pay for their house in Portugal.

One morning in a cafe we realised that everyone there was playing lotto including a couple of African men and some middle aged women. You had to choose your numbers and your bet, then validate your card at a machine and wait to see if your numbers came up on a screen. People were coming in to meet each other. One woman knew the cafe manager and introduced her grown up son - it was a thriving meeting place.

At an oyster bar in the market, someone cycled in with a boy of perhaps six years - who ran into the bar and hugged the manager. Perhaps, being Wednesday it wasn't a school day because even more young children arrived with their family and went behind the bar.

On the sunny Wednesday afternoon in a park the Jeune-Sapeurs-Pompiers-33 passed - around 30 of them, men and women carrying each other in fireman's lifts. Thirty-three is the number of the department and I guess these were trainee firemen, but some of them looked as young as 12 or 13. May be they're volunteers.

On Tuesday, outside the museum, a whole class of teenagers passed chattering along the street. I don't know why or where they're going or where they're coming from, but they're classes, not just groups of youngsters aimlessly walking.

To Bordeaux


ON Monday we had time for only two tastings, the first at Chateau Corbin Michotte GCC, where we were welcomed with a wonderful array to taste - see photo.

We had lunch at Chateau La Bonnelle GC, then woefully departed to airport, from whence most of the party went home, but we stayed for a couple more days so we could explore Bordeaux.

Bordeaux seems pleasant, spacious, clean with few pigeons to dirty the buildings and not too much graffiti. I notice building work, lots of young people, trams and bicycles.

Vendange


The harvest, or vendange, is about to happen. You can see that the grapes have ripened and are nearly ready for harvesting, which will happen towards the second half of the month.

In this photo, you can see the low hanging grapes. They prune them earlier in the year, removing surplus foliage so that the grapes get enough sun, and also the strength of the plant goes down into the lower hanging fruit.

Meals

When I last went on this St Emilion trip, I worried about drinking too much and having a hangover. Friend assured me,
"You won't drink too much, but you may find you eat too much!"
He was right. We tasted wines, but only drank them with food. And there were some super meals. The first two days involved two five course means that included:
  • starter/nibbles /soup
  • fish course
  • meat course
  • cheese course
  • desert
  • coffee & canelles
Canelle are these tiny little rum and vanilla cakes, a speciality of Bordeaux. They served them warm.

Duck was often served. Sometimes we were given duck paté - the wonderful paté de fois gras. At our last meal on Monday lunchtime, our hosts served generous servings of this on tiny squares of toast. I could have dined on those alone, along with the St Emilion wine.

Here's an example menu from Saturday lunch at Chateau La Couspaude:

Foie gras de canard mi cuit entier aux figues gellee au lillet et fantaisie de fruits
***
Pave d'esturgeons au sauternes
***
Supreme de pintadeau au basilic
Pomme sarladaises
****
Salad panachee aux noix
***
Selection de 7 fromages affines et confiture de derises noires
****
Fruits glaces
****
Cafe , canelle


With four meals like that on Friday and Saturday - were we full!

Previous visits

The Jurade visitors are very grateful for the warm welcome that the vineyards and chateaux give us, so we offer our thanks. The Jurade has records of previous visits, and here is one of the regular visitors giving the speech of thanks. For 2008, see here.

Roses


Roses are planted at the end of each row of vines in some vineyards, not for prettification but because they warn of impending mildew. Any mildew infection attacks roses two weeks before the vines, so the viticulteur has time to take preventive measures such as spraying the vines.

Terroir

At Chateau La Gaffeliere, the young guide gave us some very informative talks on the history of the region and on the wine. He answered a question about what terroir is.

Terroir is a combination of soil, micro climate, exposure, altitude, attitude, and local conditions.

The French produce what the land is best at producing, and then look for the market, rather than look to see what people want and then treat the land perhaps with fertilizers, to produce the wine that's in demand.

Secondly, wine and terroir suits the food of the terroir. Thus a Sancerre wine goes with food in a hunting region, but St Emilion is not a hunting region. The wine from St Emilion goes well with the food of the terroir such as duck, like this duck with fruits in the photo.

There's a longer discussion at the wine anorak site here.

St Emilion wine


We're in the south-west of France, in Bordeaux and specifically in the region of St Emilion, the heart of the Bordeaux vine growing area, renowned for its red wines. We're on a long weekend, Thursday - Monday, wine tasting with a group of people from the York Chancellery of St Emilion, one of the two chancelleries of the Jurade in Great Britain.

St Emilion wine is made of a blend of merlot and cabernet franc grapes usually, sometimes with some cabernet sauvignon.

The first tasting on Friday morning was at the western most chateau Belregard-Figeac Grand Cru. It's tucked away in a suburban street and not easy to find. The brothers, Pueyo were fantastically welcoming and gave us many wines to taste, with nibbles to absorb the alcohol and clean the palette between tastings. There were of course also the spittoons, essential equipment for wine tasting (especially at ten o'clock in the morning). See photo

starting with a separate taste of the different assemblages of cepages: merlot and then cabinet franc. Then:
  • 2007 mix
  • 2005 Château LA FLEUR GARDEROSE AOC Saint Emilion
  • 2005 Château BELREGARD-FIGEAC AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru
  • 2003 Château BELREGARD-FIGEAC AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru yummy
Les messieurs Pueyo even sent us each away with a half bottle. How kind.

Holiday dress


The weather in Bordeaux is still summery, so I should have brought
  • a sarong for the hotel swimming pool and
  • my 3/4 length jeans - it's warm enough for shorts.
Fortunately I've brought my new blue-green silk blouse, skirt and scarf. They were comfortable to travel in, didn't crease, are warm in the evening (we ate outside the first night in the village square - see photo), a cosy purple shawl, and for dressing down, my blue denim jacket.

Holiday - stressful start

The start of our trip was sufficiently stressful. You can imagine things going wrong; suppose a wheel/castor had come off my suitcase as I bounced it over the cobbles and me with a bad back at the moment. It didn't come off. But you don't remember what you must.

So as we left the house,
  1. husband passes me my railcard, which I pop in my shoulder bag, not in its usual place in my purse.
  2. We check I have the travel details in the front of the suitcase.
  3. He had the train tickets.
  4. We check our passports.
And we went. But it was half an hour later I realised I hadn't got my usual small handbag with my purse. So I had no English cash and no cards.

We used husband's mobile (mine's still hiding = lost) to call son and ask him to catch next train to Harrow on the Hill bringing my handbag. So he dashes out, and buys a ticket to Hemel Hempstead at three times the price! He'd just finished the wine we'd left and wasn't prepared for this complicated manoeuvre.

An hour later, big hugs to kind son, handbag and me reunited, son stands on platform to get train home again with an exciting book to read on statistical mechanics, while husband and I get the Metropolitan line straight into our London hotel and a bad night's sleep.