spare Jan 8th liz

It was lovely to see Sunil at the airport, even though he wasn't able to drive us from the hotel. I hope it didn't put him out too much to come to the airport. I wonder if he lives in Cochin? near the airport or near where the Radisson hotel is?

That hotel is like another world, a compound quite cut off from the rest of India. One day there we borrowed a couple of bikes and husband and I went out for a cycle ride, to see what it was like outside. Inside was quiet, with perhaps few guests strolling round, but more often you saw security guards, especially near the lake where the houseboat arrived. And there were gardeners there in the day time, with little green hats like sunshades on their heads while they worked in the sun. The bathroom in our cottage had a bath and two showers, one in an outdoor courtyard and even if the electricity went off there was a generator so that the hotel still carried on with light, sound, or whatever electrical use was required. One night there was a presentation of India classical dance, followed by Indian classical music, but for a few moments when the electricity cut, before the generator came in, the sound did not echo round the amphitheatre (yes, there's a small amphitheatre in there too!)

As you can imagine, outside the compound, there was no evidence of electricity, running water, plumbed sewage and I realised that women riding bicyles was a rare sight too. One girl of around 15 on her way home from school hid her eyes in shock when she saw me riding along.

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To Cochin

Jan 1st 2008
We did manage to wake up at 5 am (11.30pm body time), to get our taxi to the airport. Ahmedabad traffic at this time of the morning was easier to cope with there being none, with the almost sole exception of a young man on a scooter with a cricket bat strapped on his back – a Freddy Flintoff style dedication.

We arrived without problem at Cochin to be garlanded with flowers by our rep from Distant Frontiers and to be introduced to Sunil who was to be our driver during our stay. We were deposited at our hotel on one of the islands in the inland sea on which Cochin is situated.

In the evening we had a walking tour of another island (or part of it) called Fort Cochin where the old trading settlements were positioned – Jews, Portuguese, Dutch and English. Being New Years Day it was a holiday and Fort Cochin had a carnival so the narrow roads were thronged with happy (but not drunk as the first of every month is a dry day in Kerala). We passed the Dutch cemetery, the Church of St. Francis (see photo of us) where Vasco da Gama the Portuguese navigator was initially interred, and the Chinese Fishing Nets (see photo) – a productive method of fishing (shore based) built by Chinese traders who came to Cochin.

On leaving the walk we were dropped at Cottage Industries – a national enterprise for craft work sales. We were regaled with green tea with cardamom, smooth sales talk and beautiful Kashmir carpets before escaping to look at some jewellery (more tea, more super sales patter) before we finally made an empty-handed and slightly guilty exit.


In all this, we had received an excellent potted history of Cochin from Susan, our guide for the walk, which we were able to add to the knowledge gained from our stay in Ahmedabad, and the reading of Edward Luce’s book – ‘In Spite of the Gods’.

Although it was a dry day we found a bottle of Kingfisher beer in the fridge in our room, which served as an appetizer before sampling the sea food restaurant where we selected our main course (a pearl spot fish from the local waters which are neither salt or fresh) some massive prawns (plain and tiger) and crisp-fried anchovies as an appetizer.

Jan 2nd
We returned to the old part of Cochin with Mr. Joyce as our guide (he seemed to know many people and his mother still lived there) and commenced with the Jewish quarter. First we looked through the gate at the cemetery and then walked down the main street full of shops just opening before arriving at the Jewish Synagogue, a small hall paved with Chinese floor tiles and lit by many chandeliers of Belgian origin. An anteroom displayed a painted sequence of the length of Jewish involvement in Cochin – supposedly back to the time BCE of King Solomon and ultimately to a grant of authority to dwell in Cochin – there was a thriving community until the new state of Israel was created when almost all emigrated to it (because India for all its tolerance of different religions did not accommodate aspects of the Jewish one - observing the Sabbath for instance).

Next was the Dutch Palace built by them for the local ruler – quite small, with an elaborately carved roof, and murals of Hindu mythology (naughty). Finally, to an Anglican church built originally by the Portuguese, rebuilt by Dutch Protestants, and the first resting place of the navigator Vasco da Gama. After another look at the Chinese fishing nets we stopped again at a different cottage industry outlet to wife’s benefit and a hole in my credit card.

Afternoon spent by the pool (by me, wife was in the hotel shop doing more damage to my credit).
Then we went to see a Katakali dance demonstration preceded by watching the make-up being applied.

Kerala - Cochin

We're in the Casino Hotel, which is a totally different experience from the Host-Inn. For instance, we have two towels each, instead of one between us! However, the Host-inn had two internet terminals - here there is only one, though there is wi-fi. I have to wait for access. And it costs twice as much.

I've added something about Rusi Uncle at http://ejh2.blogspot.com/search/label/family%20history

I'll make other entries shortly. I have to check my email and the hotel shop.

Yesterday evening we went for a walk round the old city, where plenty of people were enjoying the party - celebrating new year. We saw a lot of evidence of the Catholicity of the people here - 20% of the population is Christian. There are lorries painted with holy pictures of Jesus, or Jesus and Mary. One small van was labelled

"My boss is a Jewish carpenter."

Post-Christmas plans

Mosquitoes!

That's what I'm now worrying about - do I need citronella or mosquito nets to supplement the malaria tablets for our two weeks in India? Will the hotel have taken measures to keep the wee beasties at bay?

Our hotel at Cochin looks a bit posh. We're there for two nights and on Thursday 3rd January we move to Munnar to stay in a standard cottage at the Tall Tree. Then into the 'wild' to see tigers at Periyar staying in a cottage. I imagine the houseboat at Alleppey will have the most mosquitoes. The final stop is at Kumarakom in a cottage at Radisson Plaza Resort & Spa for two nights before catching a plane from Cochin back to Mumbai where we stop overnight - I don't know where - we haven't heard back from the Indian friend who suggested that we stay in the NSCI club. She emailed that it might be full because of the wedding season.

We fly home Thursday 10th. And I hope we do fly, as now I've found, to add to my worrying, that there's been an email threat to blow up India airports on 12th January. Together with BA threats to strike 7th and 14th January, the trip gets a bit worrying. I hope we miss all the excitement.