Homeward via Mumbai

Jan 9th Homeward via Mumbai

We had to arrange a last minute hotel room for our overnight stop in Mumbai, and found the prices surprisingly London-like.

As we drove away from the Radisson and towards Cochin and the airport, wife noticed a group of villagers clustered around something – which turned out to be a large snake, probably a python.

As we approached Cochin Airport, there were some Vodafone sponsored driving rules, many of which were sensible, but I enjoyed:

• “Avoid rash driving” - stay at home?
• “Avoid over speeding” -just speeding’s ok?

Daughter texted:

"We've a leaky radiator, i caused 9sister) to panic, the house is a mess, and i'm hungry. How are you?"

Guess we'd better get home.

Rules and Customs for road users in India

1. Vehicles on a roundabout do not have priority.
2. Sound your horn as often as you like. Nobody will take offence.
3. Slow vehicles should not keep to the left. Anywhere in the road will do.
4. If there is a white line in the middle of the road, it should be used for guidance.
5. Pedestrians should walk in the road as it has a better surface than the pavement – assuming there is one.
6. Pedestrians should walk in the direction of traffic and should not walk in single file.
7. Pedestrians waiting at a zebra or other crossing should wait for a gap in the traffic – no vehicle will stop.
8. Pedestrians can cross the road anywhere they find convenient especially if slow or pulling a hand-cart.
9. If a motorist strikes a pedestrian it is bad luck for the pedestrian, but if he hits and animal it probably means a heavy fine or jail.
10. It’s ok to join a stream of traffic, or to cross it, at any time as long as oncoming traffic can stop in time. This also applies to: - making U-turns, stopping to set-down or pick-up passengers (which need not be done in the left-had lane), changing lanes, etc.
11. Do not get angry at other road users – you’ll not last 10 minutes.
12. It’s ok to carry as many people as you can crowd into or on your vehicle.
13. As per 10, it’s ok to go in the opposite direction for a short way.
14. If a policeman signals you to stop, do so, get out and find out how much he’ll take to let you go on. He needs to make a living too.

Saturday 29th December - Adrian

We struggled to get out of bed as our bodies still said that we were in the small hours and went downstairs to the small room which called itself a restaurant for continental breakfast - tea/coffe, pineapple juice and toast. Almost as soon as we were finished we were taken off for lunch at the Zoroastrian Hall (1929), a large building like a church hall, with lawn in front and terraces or patios at the front and sides. One of these had long tables laid out for lunch, where we sat as large platters were filled with a first course of chappatis, pickle and a meat curry, followed by a second spicy dish with rice.

After lunch four adults and two children piled into a rickshaw (a 2 or 4 stroke 3-wheeled vehicle in green and yellow with an old-style convertible hood. I sat in the front alongside the driver - a dubious privilege as the horrors of the traffic are even closer there, and, as the small front wheel is almost underneath you, even closer to the wheels of bicycles, scooters, and the backs and legs of pedestrians, the hand carts and the monstrous fume belching buses.

I should have mentioned that we stopped first at the apartment of Zenobia and Noshir, the grand parents of the small boy whose navjote ceremony (a sort of first-comnmunion) was the cause of all the celebrations.

In the afternoon, while wife caught up with her sleep, I went for a walk, first of all to the completely misnamed 'Italian Bakery' (I asked what Italian bread they had but the Indian girl at the counter told me they had none).

I carried on walking, along the line of the old-city walls (brick-built and extensive but in disrepair) as I felt that the river which flows through Ahmedabad (dividing it into and old and a new town by its considerable width), lay behind the buildings on the opposite side of the road. As I walked, the new buildings opposite the wall (hotels, apartments, the Mount Carmel primary school and the Ahmedabad Rifle Club which was now degorging contestants from a National competition) thinned out and the spaces betweeen occupied by shanty settlements of increasing squalor as I approached a cross-road and turned left to find a bridge crossing the river (Sabarmati?)

Adrian's first impressions

Ahmedabad 28th December
We flew into Mumbai airport by Jet Airways - noticing the shanty town by its side as we landed. International airports are usually a prestige monument to the host nation, but Mumbai airport fails to impress and as we transferred by bus to the domestic terminal, with closer contact to the neighbouring shanties, and the building work on the warehouses (unfinished so that cardboard packaged goods were out in the open) with women carrying building materials on their heads, the impression worsened. The domestic terminal is new but the expected electronic announcement boards were absent so that boarding was organised by announcements and rail way style destination boards at the gates - onto another bus to the plane on the tarmac.

We were met by Kaizad and one of his sons, with a cousin to drive a small and battered four-seat er into which we five and luggage were piled - seat belts ? - no! Nothing but the experience can prepare you for the horror of traffic in Ahmedabad - traffic in Palermo was peaceful and well-regulated by comparison. There is a continual beeping of horns to the extent that as a warning signal this exercise is pointless through indecipherability in the overall noise. There are no lanes marked - even in the few places where an all but indistinguishable mark exists it is ignored entirely - there is often no directional discipline, and crossing, entrances and exits are a complete free for all - with people and vehicles dashing into and across any free spaces. Bicycles, pedestrians from the fleet to almost lame, hand and horse cats, scooters and three-wheeled ''rickshaws' jostle with cars, lorries and buses, all without regard for each other. Not to mention ubiquitous dogs and the odd bullock grazing on greenery in the central reservation as additional hazards to be negotiated. No wonder the sky is filled with kites wheeling away in their dozens.


January 14th is the festival day or competition for the flying of man-made kites, when the sky becomes almost invisible with them, it is said. Remnants of unsuccessful kites are wrapped around every overhead wire and by the side of the road from the airport, boys were laying out lengths of white and fluorescent red threads on poles in preparation for the big day.

We were deposited at a small hotel. Across the road was an opulent 'Le Meridien' which we went into when ours did not know how to deal with travellers cheques. They couldn't deal with ours as we were not resident there, but phoned across the road with the necessary information and half an hour later a banker and his driver turned up so that we could perform a transaction in the hotel restaurant, sealed with a cup of tea and some social conversation.

Also across the road was a building labelled 'The Zoroastian Womens Ind. Coop' indicating the Parsee community of whom we were guests, and behind our hotel was a mosque, the PA system amplified muezzin of which woke us at dawn local time (1 am ish GMT).